Athens — the bank
Piraeus — Mikrolimano
One entry. It only needs one.
Mikrolimano is the small round harbour on the far side of Piraeus — the war harbour of ancient Athens, now ringed with boats and fish tavernas, twenty-five minutes from the centre. I keep exactly one entry here, because when a restaurant serves the best fish in Greece it doesn't need company. Come for lunch, take your time, and walk the circle of the harbour after. When someone asks for the one meal that explains Greek food, this is where I send them.
Dourambeis
The best fish in Greece. Raw Kilada shrimp, langoustines raw or over the coals, sole fried and grilled — and the finest tomato in the country.
Elsewhere in the bank
KolonakiCenter & aroundKoukakiPangratiMetsThe coast — Vouliagmeni & KavouriWorth the ride — Kolonos & Moschato