A dispatch from AthensAthens

Athens — the bank

The coast — Vouliagmeni & Kavouri

Athens is a sea city; this is the proof.

Visitors keep forgetting Athens sits on the sea; Athenians never do. Half an hour south of the centre the city runs out into the Riviera — Vouliagmeni and Kavouri, where the pines meet swimming coves and the fish restaurants sit close enough to the water to hear it. This is where Athens goes on Sundays: swim first, long lunch after, a sunset drink if you've done it properly. Essential in summer; empty and arguably better in winter. Take a taxi and don't plan anything for the afternoon.

Nobu (Four Seasons)

Drinks at the bar by the sea as the sun goes down — inside the best Four Seasons I've been to.

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Papaioannou

Fish on top of the sea in Kavouri — the langoustine kritharoto is tremendous. Ask for the table on the water.

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Akti Vouliagmeni

Fish above the water, best straight after a swim. Ask for the outside tables.

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Elsewhere in the bank

Want this tailored to your dates? Athens, planned.