Athens — the bank

Koukaki

South of the rock; drinks first, food in hand after.

Koukaki runs along the south side of the Acropolis, ten minutes from the ticket gate and a world away from the crowds at the top. A few years ago it was on every "coolest neighbourhood in Europe" list; it survived the attention and went back to being a neighbourhood. The local rhythm is drinks first — an easy bar after a day of marble — and food in hand after, no reservation required. If you're staying near the Acropolis Museum, this is your local; treat it that way.