Athens — the bank
Kolonaki
The hill I live on, more or less — old money, new grills.
Kolonaki is the centre's uphill neighbourhood — the streets climbing from Syntagma toward Lycabettus, where old Athenian money has always lived, eaten and argued. Its reputation is expensive and pleased with itself; that's half true, and the other half is the best eating in central Athens right now, from a hundred-year-old taverna to the new generation of grills. Everything on this list is a short walk from the square, and Lycabettus is right there to walk it off. I live here, more or less, so consider this the most heavily tested page on the site.
Ntellos
Possibly the best souvlaki in the centre right now, from the new generation of grills.
Onuki
The best sushi in central Athens.
Queen Bee
Morning coffee and brunch — take a table by the road for the vitamin D.
Vezené
The Sunday roast. In summer, sit at the tables outside.
CV Distiller
For rum and whiskey — the depth of the shelf is the point.
Ratka
The food is good; the room is everything — Athenians only, generations deep. Ask for the first room, or outside.
Iodio
Fish with a twist, from a chef who once held two Michelin stars. If you're two, sit at the bar and start with a spicy margarita.
Codice Blu
My favourite fish in Kolonaki, Italian passport notwithstanding — the sea bass carpaccio, and whatever langoustines came in that morning.
To Kafeneio
Just reopened, and instantly the best Greek cooking in Kolonaki — a taverna the way they used to be.
Me
The best brunch and lunch in Athens for people who eat well and lightly — everything on the menu earns its place.
Dexameni
When the sun drops, an easy early dinner on the square — a tsipouro or a beer, and a few meze to keep it company.
Filippou
A hundred years old, cooking Greek food the way homes cook it. Completely casual.
Elsewhere in the bank
Center & aroundKoukakiPangratiMetsThe coast — Vouliagmeni & KavouriPiraeus — MikrolimanoWorth the ride — Kolonos & Moschato