A dispatch from AthensAthens

Athens — the bank

Mets

The village behind the marble stadium.

Mets is the closest thing central Athens has to a village: a few quiet slopes of old houses behind the Kallimarmaro, the marble stadium of the first modern Olympics. There is almost nothing to "see", which is the point — you come for dinner at the pace the neighbourhood keeps. It pairs naturally with the First Cemetery up the hill, the most beautiful detour in Athens, and with Pangrati next door. Two entries are all Mets needs; both are exactly right.

Elvis

The best kalamaki in Athens — then, obligatorily, a drink right next door at Chelsea.

eatthe local

Odeon

An easy drink behind the marble stadium.

drink

Elsewhere in the bank

Want this tailored to your dates? Athens, planned.