Athens — the bank
Center & around
Syntagma to Psyrri — the dense middle where the nights happen.
Syntagma, Plaka, Monastiraki, Psyrri — the Athens most visitors never leave, and the easiest place in the city to eat badly, because half the doorways are built for people who are never coming back. The good rooms hide in the same blocks, sometimes two doors from the traps. This is also where Athens does its nights — cocktail bars decorated at world level, counters that feed you properly at one in the morning. Use the list as a filter: everything on it survives on Athenians, not foot traffic.
Manari
The best of Greek cooking for meat eaters — order the pasta and the lamb chops.
Birdman
Japanese grill and sushi, a serious cocktail list, and music on vinyl — dinner and the night in one room.
Sushimou
Omakase at the counter, from the restaurant that started this whole food corner. Ask for the crawfish as an extra at the end.
The Dolli (rooftop)
Go for a drink with the Parthenon at eye level — not for dinner.
Kostas
The original Athens souvlaki. On every guide — and for once, the guides are right.
Glug Glug
Where my weekends end up — for the music, and the spot beside the church.
The Clumsies
Among the world's best cocktail bars for years running. Tell the bartenders what you like and surrender — they know more about this than we ever will.
Tanpopo
The after-cocktails bite — the shrimp, anything spicy, a cold Asahi alongside.
Epta Martyres
A reverse restaurant, Volos-style: the wine leads and the food follows. Order the bottle first, a little out of the centre.
Makers
From the owner of Me, and roughly the same menu — which is a compliment.
Wine Is Fine
A French couple who moved to Greece for love — good cooking built around good French bottles. No reservations.
Thanasis
The best kebab in Greece, tourist reputation be damned — I know people who drive forty minutes for it.
Baba Au Rum
One of the decorated ones, and it earns it — serious cocktails.
Pharaoh
The original Greek-with-a-twist — everything is a must, then galaktoboureko for dessert.
Elsewhere in the bank
KolonakiKoukakiPangratiMetsThe coast — Vouliagmeni & KavouriPiraeus — MikrolimanoWorth the ride — Kolonos & Moschato